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A quick pickle gives sweet summer produce a backbone

A quick pickle turns a red onion into the sharp, crunchy thing that ripe corn, tomatoes and peaches need. The onions do double duty as dressing.

  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan
  • Gluten free
  • Dairy free
Corn tomato peach salad with pink pickled onions and basil
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Prep
20 min
Cook
10 min
Total
30 min
Serves
4
Per serving
188kcal
Effort
Easy

Ripe summer produce is generous to the point of being soft. The fix is not more sweetness, and it is not a complicated dressing. It is a red onion cut thinly and left in vinegar for twenty minutes. The onion stays crisp, turns pink at the edges and brings the kind of sharpness that lets you eat another peach without the bowl becoming cloying.

Use the pickle liquid as the dressing. It already contains vinegar, salt and a little sugar, and it picks up the flavour of the onion while you char the corn. One small jar, one pan, no bottle of dressing to wash.

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

Quick pickle

Salad

Equipment

  • Small saucepan
  • Large frying pan
  • Heatproof jar or bowl

Method

  1. Pour the hot pickle

    Put the onion in a heatproof jar or bowl. Heat the vinegar, water, sugar and salt until steaming but not boiling. Pour it over the onion and press the slices under the liquid with a spoon.

    Leave it for at least twenty minutes. The outside will turn pink quickly; the centres should still have a little bite.

    Hands pouring warm vinegar over thin red onion slices in a glass jar
  2. Char the corn

    Heat the frying pan over high heat. Add the olive oil and corn, then spread it out. Cook for eight minutes, stirring only two or three times. You are looking for browned patches, not evenly golden kernels.

    If the corn is wet, it will release steam and take longer. Patting it dry before it goes in is worthwhile.

  3. Cut the fruit

    While the corn cooks, cut the tomatoes and peaches into pieces large enough to pick up with a fork. Tiny pieces collapse as soon as the pickle liquid goes in. Put them in a wide serving bowl with the black pepper.

  4. Turn pickle into dressing

    Lift out half the onions and set them aside. Pour two tablespoons of their liquid over the tomatoes and peaches, add the warm corn, and fold gently. Taste before adding salt; the pickle is doing that job.

  5. Add the onions

    Scatter over the pickled onions and basil. Fold once or twice, just enough to distribute the onions. Their colour will streak the tomato juice pale pink, which is exactly what you want.

  6. Rest briefly and serve

    Let the bowl stand for five minutes, then serve. The onions can be made several days ahead, but once the fruit is dressed the salad is at its best within an hour.

Red onion vinegar corn tomatoes peaches basil and pepper ready to pickle
The onion needs time, so pickle it before cutting the fruit.

Why a quick pickle is enough

You do not need a day for this onion. Thin slices have a lot of surface area, and a warm acidic liquid reaches the centre quickly. Twenty minutes takes away the raw burn while keeping the crunch. Leave it overnight and it becomes softer, sweeter and more uniformly pink; also good, but a different thing.

The small amount of sugar is not there to make the pickle sweet. It rounds off the vinegar so the peaches do not have to fight it.

A few things that make it muddy

Do not pour all the pickle liquid into the bowl. You need enough to season the tomatoes, but too much will make the corn taste boiled and wash the basil into a green film. Two tablespoons is a starting point; add another splash only if the fruit is unusually firm.

Do not salt the tomatoes before they meet the pickle. They will release water, and the dressing is already seasoned. Salt at the end if a taste needs it.

Nutrition

Per serving, for 4 servings. Estimated from ingredient weights — it moves with the brands and cuts you actually use.

NutrientPer serving
Calories 188 kcal
Protein 4 g
Carbohydrate 29 g
Fibre 4 g
Fat 8 g

Source: Estimated from ingredient weights, USDA FoodData Central

Questions

Can I use white onion?
Yes, though red onion gives colour and a slightly sweeter flavour. Shallots are also good; use two large ones.
Can I pickle the onion cold?
Yes, but leave it for at least an hour. Warm liquid gets the same texture in twenty minutes.
Can I use honey instead of sugar?
Use one teaspoon, whisked into the warm vinegar. It will make the pickle a little more floral but works well with peaches.
How long does the finished salad keep?
The dressed salad is best the same day and acceptable the next. Store extra pickled onion separately for up to two weeks.

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